Runway London Magazine

An extraordinary volume, a complete photo album: the new Runway, created with attention to detail and an acute look, fully welcoming the images of the famous London Fashion Week shows and the well established Cibeles Madrid show, and as such becoming both a valuable and exclusive pass. The BrItsh capital hosts what must be the most eccentric fashion event for Spring / Summer 2011, between the superstars and rising talents such as Michael Van Der Ham at his first solo show in London. After major collaborations (above all with Alexander McQueen), the young designer proves he knows what he is doing. He constructs an outfit, putting together a patchwork of details. He cuts and resizes small bodices, sleeves, collars, pockets, and necklines and then rebuilds them into asymmetric panels creations that appear as "one of a kind" in a search, that does not stop at volume but reaches the hand of fabrics and mixture of brightly coloured graphic prethe show staged by Giles Deacon is very eccentric, who after two seasons on the catwalks in Paris, is back in England. Not only traditional motifs on his knitted proposals, but also dolls and wide-eyes, straight out of a cartoon, along with macro hibiscus flowers lending an ironic look to skirts, classic shirts, shorts and trousers. Used with great humour, the cross printed on fabric is perhaps the most common pattern, highlighted on the dress with a balloon skirt. With faces painted like the canvas of an abstract painter, models parade with an earnest air and proudly wear the signs of a never tamed provocation. Vivienne is always Vivienne. Westwood does not abandonthe Savile Row suit with its established tailoring, but adds big, striped shirts, deconstructed shorts, floral tunics, soft robe jackets and saucy pierrot dresses, the offspring of an experiment beyond the norm. Aligned to the theme developed by many other designers for the occasion, Basso & Brooke also "paint" fabrics like the canvas of an artist. With versatile and original prethe duo give body to clothes from open skirts to gored skirts falling above the knee, mini-tunics and slightly ballooned mini-dress with puffed sleeves. The pictures are the real protagonists of the collection, they are all over and enliven the sartorial perfection: literary quotes, images of lush nature, maps and travel maps, all blended with art thanks to cutting-edge digital techniques which depict an almost television quality. Certainly not to be missed in London is Paul Smith with shirt and trousers, striped cottons and grisaille grey. His wife seems to enjoy raiding her companion's wardrobe and revisit it in an absolutely sensual and intriguing way. The impeccable trouser suits and dresses, always with that masculine air translated to female. Engines roar on the catwalk of Burberry Prorsum: Christopher Bailey rescued the Heritage Biker, cult of the claw, from the past,. The unmissable trench, this time in soft leather, more sober and reinforced with strategic stitching and a zip stolen from a motorcyclist's suit short above the knee and pulled in at the waist with the classic belt. Also present are the satin flounced dresses and chiffon tunics for the lady who prefers a Jaguar convertible to a Harley Davidson. The certainty is that a collection such as this will surely find many fans. In the blink of an eye, attention flies to Cibeles, the main showcase of creation and Spanish fashion. In the overwhelming schedule of the Iberian event, the collection of Agatha Ruiz de la pretands out. A supporter of explosive and bright fashion that is pervaded by an incurable, contagious optimism and euphoria that results in a palette of bright colours and a decorative style that is exuberant and romantic. Not to be missed are the duo, American Perez, Adolfo Dominguez, Ion Fiz and all the other proposals of the convention. images: 2000 pages: 608 format: cm. 24,5 x 33