Close Up: Women Embroidery Magazine

The collections for spring / summer 2011 show one of the oldest and finest tailoring arts in all its slendour, the ancient art of embroidery. A wave of romanticism invades the catwalks and pours forth delicate lace, starched petticoats, and fine St. Gallen finishes. This summer, as a homage to lightness and transparency, one cannot help but love the lace dresses for evening, masterpieces of craftsmanship, such as those Ermanno Scervino and Alberta Ferretti, as well as cute tunics and baby dolls with cheeky detailing proposed by Anna Sui and the always ironic Betsey Johnson. The choice of lace in ???cru or light colours, often combined with satin ribbons or tiny beads helps to create a vintage effect that permeates most of the collections this season. The non-woven fabric par excellence is then proposed in a retro version, rather than a bewitching and seductive version. However, the art of embroidery is not just limited to a classic combination with traditional fabrics. Thanks to hi-tech work, it is now also being applied to more unusual materials, from perforated yellow painted balloon dresses by Holly Fulton, to the suede inlaid top of Unique, and plastic, laser stitched lace proposed by designer Christopher Kane. In the wake of the floral trend already highlighted by designers in the choice of fabrics and prints, a shower of petals, blooms and relief applications in the style of buds become the new must-haves of the season: macro-opalescent sequins sprout like giant daisies on the bodices of the dresses by Carolina Herrera and Bagdley Mischka Antonio Berardi applies fabric cascades of roses ton sur ton on his voile tunics with dramatic effect Maurizio Pecoraro chooses crocheted flowers and coloured beads for his Citets. One associates the affectation of naive embroidery as seen on the catwalks of designers like Miuccia Prada and Custo Dalmau, with a sweet romanticism, opting for subtle, multicoloured decorations, inspired by the world of Carioca and fabulous illustrations. When night falls, Swarovski crystal is the undisputed king of the scene and c